Learning

Reflecting back on what I have learnt on Isabela conjures up a whole host of things, a list which is endless - I think it is safe to say that every single person I have met on this island has influenced or taught me something.

A tourist passing through taught me a new card game, Nick and Felipe showed me how to fillet a fish, and cook an incredible tuna pasta, locals have helped me with my Spanish, showed me how to salsa, surf and so much more. But, these are all things I can demonstrate I have learnt, I came to the Galapagos prepared to learn about the wildlifeand culture but during the process perhaps most importantly I have learnt a lot about myself, reflecting back on the person I was when I came I can see that my mental approach to life has changed. I have been able to relax and become spontaneous, going with the flow and not afraid when things go wrong. Like the endemic wildlife of the Galapagos I have adapted from the bustling streets of london to the peaceful methodical island life of Isabela. 

Before they left I asked some of the Spring 2017 UMiami students what they had learnt. Steph who came to Isabela with some Spanish told me that she now understands so much more Spanish and sometimes doesn't even need to think about it. The other big thing she said she’d learnt is to embrace the culture, to relax if something isn't as you expect, there a big culture different here and the island is like one big family, community is definitely an important word on Isabela. From the moment you arrive you get swept into the community, and you know everyone embraces you as part of the family. There are lots of differences but thats what makes the Galapagos so special, you learn to love it and everything that makes the island individual. 

During my time on Isabela I learnt that being adaptable and easy-going is going to help make the whole experience more enriching. It is likely that 90% of the things you do on this island will be different from your life at home, so rather than finding issues with it make it your advantage, embrace the fact that the experience your living is completely unique to you.

It is a great opportunity to get a first hand account of a different culture - no matter how often you travel, no matter how many countries you’ve visited on vacation there is nothing like living and interacting with locals on a daily basis. I learnt to see the unseen by listening to the locals and getting them to take you to the less visited tourist sites and hiking the additional pathway to Volcan Chico with the guide to ensure you see as much as you can, rather than letting the fatigue set in and wait for the group to return from that part of the hike.  I learnt so much more about the Galapagos that I would have done by visiting and sticking to a guidebook, I learnt this by talking to people, listening to their advice and making the most of every opportunity.  I fly home next week with a wealth of enriched knowledge from my trip, knowledge off the famous Galapagos Iguanas, or how tortoise conservation is bring back the species or no matter what the language barrier is try to communicate with the locals they know what there talking about for they live it everyday. 

Alongside this I am going to take home knowledge about myself, who I am, how i’ve changed and how my Isabela experience has taught me to be a better version of myself. I hope that all future volunteers have an experience as inspiring and life changing as mine as it is something I will never forget. 

As I have said goodbye to people on the trip it became a tradition to ask there highs and lows (although the lows were very limited and often included not getting into the island life as soon as they arrived, or not taking full advantage on day one - these are things we couldn't have changed). 

The high’s seemed to be endless and it came down to a week by week highlight so that everything could be included. My first night here I sat on the beach with Kiki watching the sunset planning everything we wanted to do whilst we were here, time has flown past and last week I sat on the beach with her and as the sunset set on her last night on Isabela. We reflected on the highlights of our and trip and it dawned on us that we have done everything we set out to do and so much more. When I asked her what she was taking away from the trip she couldn't choose is it the passion for life that the locals exude or the exotic widlife? Working with the giant tortoises? Or simply living in the Galapagos? Our island experience has been unbelievable, we both came here looking for something different to our lives at home and we found it and so much more we could never have imagined. The paradise of the Galapagos captured our hearts and is something I know I will never forget. 

Georgia B

An Interview with Ben Hall

Ben is a student from the University of Miami, he has spent three months living with a host family and living on Isabela as part of his study abroad program. Ben has spent a lot of his free time on the island surfing at El Faro (the surf beach), and has for his Service Learning Project he has been conducting evening walks along one of the beaches looking for signs of sea turtle nesting. Ben was lucky enough to witness a sea turtle heading up the beach to begin nesting. 

What do you do in your free time/weekends on Isabela? 

I paid to rent a surfboard for my last two months here, so on my free time and every Saturday I make sure to go out to the surf beach and surf as much as I can.  On Sundays, I go on trips with my host family where we have picnics and play soccer at local beaches, such as Playa del Amor or El Estero.

What Interested you in the Galapagos? And the Study abroad program?

The Galapagos are famous for being the inspiration for modern evolutionary biology, so as a biologist I have always been interested in coming here and seeing all of the famed wildlife.  When I was still in high school, I found out the University of Miami had a study abroad program to come here, so I knew I had to attend Miami and take advantage of this incredible opportunity.

How did you become involved with IOI? 

University of Miami and IOI Study Abroad Program

How long are you going to be part of this program? 

3 months 

What are your goals? Why are you participating?

My goals for coming to the Galapagos were to see all of the unique animals and to see the same unique patterns that inspired Darwin's theory of evolution.

How are you liking the experience? 

Living in the Galapagos has been an incredible experience.  Even though the islands seem small, there is an endless number of things to see.  There are so many large creatures in the Galapagos, and unlike other places in the world, you see them all the time! Living in the Galapagos for multiple months has also allowed me to learn about the island culture and puts my life back in the States in a whole new perspective.

Would you recommend this to other travellers? 

Absolutely.  The Galapagos Islands are like nothing else in the world and you will not regret coming in any way.

For people coming after you is there any advice you’d tell them?

Be ready to eat lots of fish, and overall less calories in general than what is considered normal in the States.  Invest in some jam at a local store, and then always have lots of fresh bread from a panaderia on hand.

The one thing you wished you’d pack.

Lots and lots of CLIF bars.  I brought 12, but they disappeared fast.

One thing you regret bringing. 

Not really anything.  I've used basically everything that I packed, and stuff I haven't used is mostly medication just in case I get sick.

Highlight of your trip?

Probably the most amazing part of my time in the Galapagos was when I got to swim with giant manta rays on my way to Los Tuneles.  Our boat captain spotted one from the surface, so we slowed our boat down to get a closer look.  Once we noticed that there was more than one in the water, the captain told us we could quickly put our gear on and swim with them.  When I first jumped in, the one we were following was pretty far away, so I only saw its outline and thought that was it.  However, when I looked back to the boat, the deckhand was pointing me in another direction.  Sure enough, I turned around and clearly saw a giant manta about 20 feet away! As I kept swimming around, I saw 3 or 4 more giant mantas, and one swam straight at me.  It was an incredible, unforgettable experience.

Georgia B

Interview with Dylan

Dylan Rozansky - @drozansky9068

Dylan is a University of Miami student who is visiting the Galapagos as his study abroad program. During his time on Isabela he has worked at the Tortoise Conservation Centre - as part of his Service Learning Project, this has involved cleaning corrals, and assisting various jobs around the centre so that it remains in great condition for the tortoises and is a great experience for visitors of the centre. 

What do you do in your free time/weekends on Isabela

I enjoy going to the beach, going snorkelling, surfing, and spending time with my host family.

What Interested you in the Galapagos And the Study abroad program

I was drawn by the amazing wildlife here that are not found anywhere else in the world

I picked this study abroad program because I had friends that went on it in the past and absolutely loved it. The number of trips the students get to take is amazing and I knew that I would love every single one of them. The third reason was I hadn’t been to South America before and I really wanted to come.

How did you become involved with IOI

University of Miami and IOI Study Abroad Program

How long are you going to be part of this program

months

What are your goals Why are you participating

My biggest goal coming here was to improve my Spanish because I have taken Spanish for the past 4ish years and I have never had the chance to use it outside of the classroom. I was really excited by the idea of using Spanish as my primary means of communication with people around me. Since I got here, I also really enjoyed learning how to surf because I never had the chance when I was younger and I want to get even better at it. Another goal was improving my free diving skills because we free dive in a lot of our classes and I wanted to be able to spend more time underwater and be able to dive deeper. I feel that I have managed to achieve all of these goals in the three months I have been participating in the IOI Study Abroad program and I plan to continue improving my Spanish once I have left Isabela and continue on my travels around South America. 

How are you liking the experience

I absolutely love Isabela! The people here are so nice and it is a big change from life in the US. The field trips have been amazing and we have gotten to see some things that I thought I would only ever see in books – like manta rays, marine iguanas, Galapagos penguins, and hammerhead sharks. I know that I will come back to the Galapagos in the future!!

Would you recommend this to other travelers

Yes! It is a great way to see the Galapagos and makes you feel like you have found a second home!

For people coming after you is there any advice you’d tell them

Come with an open mind and be willing to step outside your comfort zone because it will make your experience that much better

The one thing you wished you’d pack.

I really wish I brought my hammock from home as it is one of the best ways to spend an afternoon or see the sunset.

One thing you regret bringing. 

I regret bringing so many long sleeves because you just don’t need them down here!

 Highlight of your trip

The highlight of my trip was seeing two giant manta rays at Tortuga, it was the coolest thing I have ever seen! I couldn’t believe how big they were!

Weekend Activities : Los Tuneles

Waking up on Saturday morning I headed off with some other IOI volunteers to explore the lava tunnels on the south west side of Isabela. This is one of the many tours you can book and do during your free time on the island. This is a full day tour and allows you to travel an hour around the coast to see some spectacular wildlife. 

Roca Union

Heading out for the day we get on the boat and we are excitedly scanning the water in the hope to spot some wildlife, before we had even left the dock we saw a ray swimming past - surely this is a good sign for the day ahead. Our journey took us around the coastline of Isabela, we sailed relatively close to the shoreline for about an hour with incredible view of the Volcan Sierra Negra and Volcan Cerro Azul on the horizon. Just over half way we reached the enormous rock called Roca Union, where we spotted our first Nazca Boobie, one of the famous inhabitants of the Galapagos. Other than the birds living on the rock the surrounding area is nothing but deep sea, there were a few sea lions napping in the sun but this sight was like something from a movie. The azure blue ocean was crashing on the rocks and we circle the rock a few times enjoying the picturesque views. The water is a mix of aqua marine, blue, white and the Nazca Boobies perched on the top seem oblivious to the treacherous waters below - it seemed like a setting from Homer’s Odyssey.

We reached the lava arches of Los Tuneles, and our captain navigated carefully through the shallow lava tunnels. Inside the breakers the water is calm and clear, a near reflective surface was created due to the cloud morning the view was spectacular. We spent some time cruising slowly through the arches watching blue footed boobies, iguanas and the occasional sea turtle the views are unparalleled. Hopping off the boat we began to explore the maze of lava tunnel arches, and spotted some Blue Footed Boobies, we were incredible lucky because it was mating season and the male Blue Footed Boobies were putting on a show to impress the females. To attract the female they show off their blue feet by strutting from one side to another, and begin their mating ritual dance by “sky-pointing” which involves pointing their beak to the sky and raising their tail and wings to impress the female. 

Jumping back onto the boat we head to our first snorkelling spot, the water was calm and still with the waters being protected by lava formed tubes and rocks, even looking from the boat you can see wildlife in the crystal clear water. Our first snorkel took us through the arches, duck diving through the underwater tunnels our guide showed us some incredible views and wildlife - it was spectacular. Being passed by sea lions, they were twisting and twirling through the water like acrobats exploring the rocky landforms.

Back on the board the boat took us around the coastline to a snorkelling site near a mangrove forest - we weaved through the rocky coves and shallow tunnels which allowed us to see schools of fish and sea turtles. It was exciting to see the green sea turtles which are impressive due to their size and gracefully movements in the water. Diving down to the bottom we were able to see a seahorse camouflaged by the sediment. The guide finally asked us if we wanted to see some “big fish” and of course the answer was yes! One by one we ducked down and under a rock and saw a massive group of sharks swimming in the cave - the sight was incredible and I soon forgot about holding my breath and watched in awe as the sharks swam around the enclosed area not even bothering to acknowledge the swimmer peering into their underwater world. 

The whole day was unbelievable and I arrived back at the dock exhausted from an amazing day snorkelling and exploring the island. This tour was one of the best ways to spend a day on the Isabela. Where else in the world can you snorkel in shallow waters with white-tipped reef sharks, sea turtles, sea horses and so much more!

-Georgia B

Volunteer Interview with Sarah Merzon

Sara is a student at the Maritime University of Massachusetts, in her free time on Isabela she loves lying back in a hammock reading a good book or snorkelling at the local lagoon, Concha de Perla. Sara feels that her experience on Isabela is something she will never forget. 

What Interested you in the Galapagos? 

This is so far away from my home town I love seeing the raw nature and habitat of the animals - it’s hard not to interest you. When you’re at home imagining waking up in the mythological archipelago everyday with the wildlife roaming more freely than the people - it’s magical. The climate is amazing and even though its rainy season the rainfall is short and the days are hot - Isabela is a haven of untouched magic. 

How did you become involved with IOI? 

I became involved with the IOI because a friend volunteered on Isabela last year and she told me about it, I researched it and spoke with Amanda and loved the idea and the work that the IOI do, so here I am. I am doing the IOI in conjunction with my degree which is a Bachelors in Science with a concentration in Marine Safety and Environmental Protection from the Massachusetts Maritime Academy. 

How long have you been part of this program? 

3 weeks out of 4 

What are your goals? Why are you participating? 

I came to the Galapagos for credit for my school and to help in the completion of a project but in reality since I got here my goal became more personal it focuses on helping species thrive and the opportunity to give back to the wildlife and take part in things you don’t see everyday has also become a goal. The opportunity to work with the IOI is amazing and the ability to help preserve an ecologically sustainable and stable social economy whilst having an amazing time and helping to preserve this precious environment for further generations means so much to me. I would like my children to be able to see the tortoises, the boobies, and the iguanas in the wild and not just read about them. I also think it is up to my generation to step up and make a difference.

How are you liking the experience? Would you recommend this to other travellers?

I love it - working with the IOI the people are amazing, its super independent but if you have a problem the support is there and everything can be resolved quickly. 

I love living in the volunteer house - my room mates KiKi and Georgia have become some of my best friends, its nice to be able to have people who share the same goals as you do. I now have friends from Canada, Argentina, London and all over the US that have all become people I trust and rely on and we’ve only known each other for 3 weeks. I think the ability to make such great friends in such a short period of time is because of the lack of electrical connection (e.g. wifi) - it forces you to speak to each other, share stories or just play worldwide card games until you become more comfortable in each others company. There is no option to hide behind your phone sending messages to people from back home living on Isabela you get to see your true self, and discover a life on a digital detox - but you are also meeting like minded individuals, which is so amazing. 

I would recommend the IOI to other travellers for so many reasons but I think even if your here for just a month the impact it will have on your life will be forever. Living in such a small community it gives you the chance to stop and think, and breathe deeply living in a slower lifestyle it is the best contrast to life for me back in the States, whilst the work your doing is going to have such a positive impact you can't help but feel a sense of pride for the work your doing. 

For people coming after you is there any advice you’d tell them?

Be open minded - people in the states are accustomed to everything being catered to them but here their lifestyle and way of living is unique to what I've seen before. Animals rule the island in an interesting role reversal - the marine iguanas live their life freely whereas the people are more controlled. Life back home is fast paced and you need to take some time to slow down to island time and then your going to love it, it may take a few days but soon it will be your way of life and you will be accustomed to it and never want to go home. 

Keep your eyes open - when you’re on Isabela don’t spend all of your time looking through a camera take time to enjoy the view for yourself because sometimes memories are better than the photographs. I am all for taking my camera everywhere but sometimes you have to remember to put it down, switch of your phone lay back in the sand and watch the stars because trust me the photo will never beat the real thing. 

The one thing you wished you’d pack.

Peanut butter - I love it and its expensive here, living in the volunteer house we make our own breakfasts, the shops have most things but peanut butter is particularly expensive because everything has to be shipped in from mainland and then brought from Santa Cruz - if you love something so much its best to bring it so as to avoid disappointment. 

More books - I love reading a book on the beach usually lying in a hammock is my favorite way to spend the afternoon. IOI have a few books which you can borrow and then put one back in its place but I am reading a lot more than I expected. 

One thing you regret bringing. 

Hair Straighteners - I have no need for them here, since I unpacked on day one they have been a waste of space, Island life is very relaxed and its hard to imagine needing to dress up so much you may want to use them.

Highlight of your trip? 

Los Tunules - I got to snorkel with Galapagos creatures and see unique landscapes which I’ve never seen anywhere else in the world.

Meeting Kiki and Georgia (friends from the volunteer house) - we all met each other on our way to Isabela despite the fact that we come from two sides of the USA and London we got on since day one. All three of us have a sense of adventure and we headed straight up to the highlands on our first week - we have become such good friends on more than just a work basis. We eat every meal together, spend the days laughing on the beach nights playing cards in our house or star-gazing. I would consider them some of my closest friends and I’ve only known them for 3 weeks and it’s felt like forever. The chances that I would have met them in our normal lives is slim but IOI gave me the opportunity to meet two girls who are just like me and I am really grateful for that.

-Georgia B

Sierra Negra and Volcan Chico

Spending time in Puerto Villamil you are constantly being shadowed by the silhouette of Sierra Negra. Thus far I have managed to surpass the urge to hike the volcano, but last week I broke and felt the motivation to climb up the active geological formation which rises to 1,124m above sea level, with its caldera being the second largest in the world at around 6 miles wide. 

Jumping on the chiva we made our way up the winding dirt roads for about 45 minutes passing horses and donkeys shading themselves underneath fruit trees. The chiva dropped us off at the end of the hiking trail and the sun is beating down although we are protected by a cluster of clouds we begin to make our way along the path. Within the first few minutes of climbing the trail, the path takes us up and down winding around the edge of the volcano, gradually climbing higher and higher we began to witness some incredible views of Puerto Villamil below us. The clouds melted away and the panoramic views are spectacular. The lush green trees and hills contrast the bright blue ocean and rocky outcrops of Cuatro Hermanos in the Pacific below. 

About an hour into the journey we emerged from the trees to the spectacular view of the caldera below. The caldera seemed to appear out of nowhere, and with the little cloud cover now burnt off in the heat we have views of the entire caldera filled with old lava flows and there are view’s of the eruption site from the 2005. Walking along the rim, we stopped for a few photograph opportunities and the chance to enjoy the dramatic landscape before us which is so unexpected when you look up at the vibrant green highlands from the town. The stark contrast of matt black lava rock with the lush humid vegetation adds to the atmosphere. We continued along the caldera across the rocky terrain until we reached a suitable point where we could stop so that students from the University of Miami could take down information for their geology classes. 

We stand on the edge of the caldera and admire the magnificent views from our high vantage point and then begin the walk back towards the usual path, from here we begin the descent to Volcan Chico. 

Heading to Volcan Chico, a collection of small craters gives you the opportunity to see the fumaroles and impressive volcanic landscape. The climb is straight down meaning the return journey will be tough but the view is worth it. The grass quickly disappears and the remaining plants are cacti shooting straight out of the dried lava. The ground below changed from dirt to red rock and then crystallized black lava within in steps of each other you can feel the contrast from Chico to Sierra Negra. The size of the lava fields are immense and the hollow lava tubes running down the side of the volcano are breathtaking the area seems to be frozen in time as you can see the lava flow rolling over the sides of the cliffs it is possible to imagine the immense scale of the eruption. 

Volcan Chico is an incredible site you can see the lava flows right down to the ocean, on the journey down to Volcan Chico we pass by many sulphuric vents with steam rising and ferns growing up inside, waving our hand on the edge you can feel the heat rising. Exploring Volcan Chico is how I imagine it is to walk on the moon the contrast is incredible in comparison to the white sandy beaches in Puerto Villamil or even the luscious highlands, as we sat on the top of the cone enjoying lunch and absorbing the view we could see the clouds moving in fast and it was not long before the views of the ocean had vanished and we were engulfed in clouds and rain. Although usually the rain would be a dampener on the trip this was a welcome break from the heat and humidity we had experience for the earlier part of the expedition. The return trip is along the same path and with the rain ceasing for a few minutes we could see the steam rising from the rocks. 

It is the perfect way to see how the Galapagos Islands were formed and the incredible raw, uninhabited beauty of Isabela, truly reflected in the hike up Sierra Negra. 

Arrival in the Archipelago

London | Spain | Ecuador | Galapagos Islands 

The journey to Isabela was long, and albeit the planning complicated, as I flew into Baltra it somehow seemed worth it. Flying over the ocean from Guyaquil I was greeted by the mythological Archipelago of the Galapagos, the azure ocean waves break on the arid rocks. The landscape on Isla Baltra makes you feel as if you are on another planet, the cactus’ growing high in the orange, red sand is a stark contrast to the blue ocean. The animals on these remote islands can’t always be found anywhere else, and the isolated group of volcanic lands are a wonderful showcase of vast ecosystems and biodiversity.  

Although the flight might have amassed over 25 hours that is only half the journey (and perhaps on reflection it was the easiest part), upon arrival in Baltra, there’s a bus and boat to Santa Cruz a taxi over the island to the port and then the 2 and a half hour boat trip to the sandy town of Puerto Villamil, on Isabela Island. 

Puerto Villamil sits on an island shaped like a seahorse. Formed by an amalgamation of six large volcanoes, one ofmost volcanically active place in the world - a contrast to the otherwise calm and peaceful day to day life on the island.  

However remote you may think Isabela is, the population is bigger than we first expected and as I washed up on the shores of the island on my first day, overwhelmed by the accomplishment of getting there, I was aware of just how lucky I am to have the chance to live here for the next few months. I met up withtwo other volunteers Kiki and Sara on the way and we were greeted by Amanda on the dock. No sooner had we stepped of the boat but we found a few Iguanas lying in the sand, basking in the heat - it became quite clear that the animals are free to do as they wish. We were greeted by sandy streets, swaying palm trees, exotic wildlife and incredible people - we quickly realized that this island is pretty much paradise.  

A tour of the town and swim in the ocean confirmed we had arrived in a rarely discovered haven and as the warm salty waves lapped on the sand it washed away all thoughts of the journey that had come before.  

The volunteer house is next to the IOI building in Puerto Villamil and a short walk into the town, we soon found ourselves sitting in a bustling restaurant on our first night enjoying the island’s buzz, discussing our plans for the trip and all the tours we wanted to do.  

From the enormous tortoises, and endemic penguins to lava lizards and a large population of cormorants the inhabitants of this island are remarkable. Among the immense flora and fauna the archipelago is known for being the place where Darwin began to formulate his groundbreaking theories of evolution. The Galapagos Islands are living proof to this theory, the ever-changing landscape, the birth of species and adaptation in these extreme conditions illustrates just that. The islands are filled with hope that, despite the odds being less than favorable on this planet, anything can happen.  

As the sunset on our first evening in Isabela we sat on the beach gazing at the clear skies and twinkling stars,  breathing in the salty air we all knew that our time in Isabela would be something we won’t ever forget.